3,825 miles of beautiful autumnal America, family and friends, art and architecture, lower gasoline prices, trail mix lunches, ancient Thin Lizzy cranked up in Tennessee, Hurricane Ike damage in Louisville, broken locks, a corporate collection packed with Lees and Eddies, a knockout exhibit of Castles, crazy-ass AM frontier radio, the unknown monument to the Everly Brothers, and a real Ohio buckeye.